I have also noticed in different areas that the top layer seams to be wasting away in different areas such as the mix of the asphalt and its stone/pebble like appearance is obvious compared to a flat look it once had. Soil type, amount of base needed, type of material used for base, what kind of vehicle traffic will park and drive on the driveway, drainage conditions, etc. I prefer #5's at 16" OC EW so I can walk through the mesh w/o standing on bars. They also evaluate the subsoil to see how much load it can withstand. if you get rid of trees either will work well. I'm sure it varies by state and municipal building code, but where I live concrete driveways are considered a "permanent structure" and are property taxed at a much higher level than asphalt, which is considered to be a "temporary structure". It ALWAYS paid off. So places consider concrete permanent home improvement thus raising your property taxes and asphalt is not consider permeant and will not raise your property taxes. Concrete always cracks (so does Asphalt), but after I have it sealed each year for $100 (three car rear entry garage) and it looks like new against the white house. Asphalt is way cheaper than concrete but,you get what you pay for,blacktop is soft and will creat dips after driving on it after so long,you can not alt it in winter as it breaks up the composition,and yeas it does require more money to keep it up,so in all,if you concrete your driveway now it is good almost forever,blacktop it and you will redo it every 5-7 years thus equally costing the same in the long run not to mention not having use of the driveway for a day or two every few years.
Roman roads have lasted millennia because they put in three layers of large to small stones bottom to top, with the equivalent of pavers on top. On another (though related) subject, I have found that minor surface defects in concrete can be successfully patched with fiberglass paste (a.k.a.
Many factors to consider before making a decision on what type material you want for a driveway. One thing that influenced me when we decided to pave our stone drive. Well i know being young i dont have anywhere near half the experiance as many on here. Proper placement of adequate control joints will either make, or "break" a concrete driveway application. My company is able to install it with color and stamp pattern as well.
That will keep water out of the subgrade and keep the joints from spalling (cracking back away from the joint). The bottom line for a consumer is to make sure whoever places your concrete keeps the water ratio at the proper level. half the cost of concrete at the time.) Now the color is flat and leans very much towards a silver look (instead of grey).
Concrete is bad in Florida. Asphalt is less desirable when heavy vehicles/equipment is going to be parked often in the same spot as sub surface will eventually compact further and the resulting sheer forces will crack the concrete eventually, while asphalt will dip and retain water/ice with subsequently enhanced conditions leading to deterioration. Mildew doesn't grow on it or it doesn't show.
Seems like the home buyer or owner needs to go to the rental store and man up to a wacker packer!! Broom rfinish.
In other words, is one easier and/or cheaper to dig into, work around and then patch? The formation of Ice between or below pavement tends to break it. The streets are asphalt, seal coated. I still "like" my driveway but it certainly lost the "slate" look.
I have also noticed in different areas that the top layer seams to be wasting away in different areas such as the mix of the asphalt and its stone/pebble like appearance is obvious compared to a flat look it once had. Soil type, amount of base needed, type of material used for base, what kind of vehicle traffic will park and drive on the driveway, drainage conditions, etc. I prefer #5's at 16" OC EW so I can walk through the mesh w/o standing on bars. They also evaluate the subsoil to see how much load it can withstand. if you get rid of trees either will work well. I'm sure it varies by state and municipal building code, but where I live concrete driveways are considered a "permanent structure" and are property taxed at a much higher level than asphalt, which is considered to be a "temporary structure". It ALWAYS paid off. So places consider concrete permanent home improvement thus raising your property taxes and asphalt is not consider permeant and will not raise your property taxes. Concrete always cracks (so does Asphalt), but after I have it sealed each year for $100 (three car rear entry garage) and it looks like new against the white house. Asphalt is way cheaper than concrete but,you get what you pay for,blacktop is soft and will creat dips after driving on it after so long,you can not alt it in winter as it breaks up the composition,and yeas it does require more money to keep it up,so in all,if you concrete your driveway now it is good almost forever,blacktop it and you will redo it every 5-7 years thus equally costing the same in the long run not to mention not having use of the driveway for a day or two every few years.
Roman roads have lasted millennia because they put in three layers of large to small stones bottom to top, with the equivalent of pavers on top. On another (though related) subject, I have found that minor surface defects in concrete can be successfully patched with fiberglass paste (a.k.a.
Many factors to consider before making a decision on what type material you want for a driveway. One thing that influenced me when we decided to pave our stone drive. Well i know being young i dont have anywhere near half the experiance as many on here. Proper placement of adequate control joints will either make, or "break" a concrete driveway application. My company is able to install it with color and stamp pattern as well.
That will keep water out of the subgrade and keep the joints from spalling (cracking back away from the joint). The bottom line for a consumer is to make sure whoever places your concrete keeps the water ratio at the proper level. half the cost of concrete at the time.) Now the color is flat and leans very much towards a silver look (instead of grey).
Concrete is bad in Florida. Asphalt is less desirable when heavy vehicles/equipment is going to be parked often in the same spot as sub surface will eventually compact further and the resulting sheer forces will crack the concrete eventually, while asphalt will dip and retain water/ice with subsequently enhanced conditions leading to deterioration. Mildew doesn't grow on it or it doesn't show.
Seems like the home buyer or owner needs to go to the rental store and man up to a wacker packer!! Broom rfinish.
In other words, is one easier and/or cheaper to dig into, work around and then patch? The formation of Ice between or below pavement tends to break it. The streets are asphalt, seal coated. I still "like" my driveway but it certainly lost the "slate" look.
I have also noticed in different areas that the top layer seams to be wasting away in different areas such as the mix of the asphalt and its stone/pebble like appearance is obvious compared to a flat look it once had. Soil type, amount of base needed, type of material used for base, what kind of vehicle traffic will park and drive on the driveway, drainage conditions, etc. I prefer #5's at 16" OC EW so I can walk through the mesh w/o standing on bars. They also evaluate the subsoil to see how much load it can withstand. if you get rid of trees either will work well. I'm sure it varies by state and municipal building code, but where I live concrete driveways are considered a "permanent structure" and are property taxed at a much higher level than asphalt, which is considered to be a "temporary structure". It ALWAYS paid off. So places consider concrete permanent home improvement thus raising your property taxes and asphalt is not consider permeant and will not raise your property taxes. Concrete always cracks (so does Asphalt), but after I have it sealed each year for $100 (three car rear entry garage) and it looks like new against the white house. Asphalt is way cheaper than concrete but,you get what you pay for,blacktop is soft and will creat dips after driving on it after so long,you can not alt it in winter as it breaks up the composition,and yeas it does require more money to keep it up,so in all,if you concrete your driveway now it is good almost forever,blacktop it and you will redo it every 5-7 years thus equally costing the same in the long run not to mention not having use of the driveway for a day or two every few years.
Roman roads have lasted millennia because they put in three layers of large to small stones bottom to top, with the equivalent of pavers on top. On another (though related) subject, I have found that minor surface defects in concrete can be successfully patched with fiberglass paste (a.k.a.
Many factors to consider before making a decision on what type material you want for a driveway. One thing that influenced me when we decided to pave our stone drive. Well i know being young i dont have anywhere near half the experiance as many on here. Proper placement of adequate control joints will either make, or "break" a concrete driveway application. My company is able to install it with color and stamp pattern as well.
That will keep water out of the subgrade and keep the joints from spalling (cracking back away from the joint). The bottom line for a consumer is to make sure whoever places your concrete keeps the water ratio at the proper level. half the cost of concrete at the time.) Now the color is flat and leans very much towards a silver look (instead of grey).
Concrete is bad in Florida. Asphalt is less desirable when heavy vehicles/equipment is going to be parked often in the same spot as sub surface will eventually compact further and the resulting sheer forces will crack the concrete eventually, while asphalt will dip and retain water/ice with subsequently enhanced conditions leading to deterioration. Mildew doesn't grow on it or it doesn't show.
Seems like the home buyer or owner needs to go to the rental store and man up to a wacker packer!! Broom rfinish.
In other words, is one easier and/or cheaper to dig into, work around and then patch? The formation of Ice between or below pavement tends to break it. The streets are asphalt, seal coated. I still "like" my driveway but it certainly lost the "slate" look.
I have also noticed in different areas that the top layer seams to be wasting away in different areas such as the mix of the asphalt and its stone/pebble like appearance is obvious compared to a flat look it once had. Soil type, amount of base needed, type of material used for base, what kind of vehicle traffic will park and drive on the driveway, drainage conditions, etc. I prefer #5's at 16" OC EW so I can walk through the mesh w/o standing on bars. They also evaluate the subsoil to see how much load it can withstand. if you get rid of trees either will work well. I'm sure it varies by state and municipal building code, but where I live concrete driveways are considered a "permanent structure" and are property taxed at a much higher level than asphalt, which is considered to be a "temporary structure". It ALWAYS paid off. So places consider concrete permanent home improvement thus raising your property taxes and asphalt is not consider permeant and will not raise your property taxes. Concrete always cracks (so does Asphalt), but after I have it sealed each year for $100 (three car rear entry garage) and it looks like new against the white house. Asphalt is way cheaper than concrete but,you get what you pay for,blacktop is soft and will creat dips after driving on it after so long,you can not alt it in winter as it breaks up the composition,and yeas it does require more money to keep it up,so in all,if you concrete your driveway now it is good almost forever,blacktop it and you will redo it every 5-7 years thus equally costing the same in the long run not to mention not having use of the driveway for a day or two every few years.
Roman roads have lasted millennia because they put in three layers of large to small stones bottom to top, with the equivalent of pavers on top. On another (though related) subject, I have found that minor surface defects in concrete can be successfully patched with fiberglass paste (a.k.a.
Many factors to consider before making a decision on what type material you want for a driveway. One thing that influenced me when we decided to pave our stone drive. Well i know being young i dont have anywhere near half the experiance as many on here. Proper placement of adequate control joints will either make, or "break" a concrete driveway application. My company is able to install it with color and stamp pattern as well.
That will keep water out of the subgrade and keep the joints from spalling (cracking back away from the joint). The bottom line for a consumer is to make sure whoever places your concrete keeps the water ratio at the proper level. half the cost of concrete at the time.) Now the color is flat and leans very much towards a silver look (instead of grey).
Concrete is bad in Florida. Asphalt is less desirable when heavy vehicles/equipment is going to be parked often in the same spot as sub surface will eventually compact further and the resulting sheer forces will crack the concrete eventually, while asphalt will dip and retain water/ice with subsequently enhanced conditions leading to deterioration. Mildew doesn't grow on it or it doesn't show.
Seems like the home buyer or owner needs to go to the rental store and man up to a wacker packer!! Broom rfinish.
In other words, is one easier and/or cheaper to dig into, work around and then patch? The formation of Ice between or below pavement tends to break it. The streets are asphalt, seal coated. I still "like" my driveway but it certainly lost the "slate" look.
I have also noticed in different areas that the top layer seams to be wasting away in different areas such as the mix of the asphalt and its stone/pebble like appearance is obvious compared to a flat look it once had. Soil type, amount of base needed, type of material used for base, what kind of vehicle traffic will park and drive on the driveway, drainage conditions, etc. I prefer #5's at 16" OC EW so I can walk through the mesh w/o standing on bars. They also evaluate the subsoil to see how much load it can withstand. if you get rid of trees either will work well. I'm sure it varies by state and municipal building code, but where I live concrete driveways are considered a "permanent structure" and are property taxed at a much higher level than asphalt, which is considered to be a "temporary structure". It ALWAYS paid off. So places consider concrete permanent home improvement thus raising your property taxes and asphalt is not consider permeant and will not raise your property taxes. Concrete always cracks (so does Asphalt), but after I have it sealed each year for $100 (three car rear entry garage) and it looks like new against the white house. Asphalt is way cheaper than concrete but,you get what you pay for,blacktop is soft and will creat dips after driving on it after so long,you can not alt it in winter as it breaks up the composition,and yeas it does require more money to keep it up,so in all,if you concrete your driveway now it is good almost forever,blacktop it and you will redo it every 5-7 years thus equally costing the same in the long run not to mention not having use of the driveway for a day or two every few years.
Roman roads have lasted millennia because they put in three layers of large to small stones bottom to top, with the equivalent of pavers on top. On another (though related) subject, I have found that minor surface defects in concrete can be successfully patched with fiberglass paste (a.k.a.
Many factors to consider before making a decision on what type material you want for a driveway. One thing that influenced me when we decided to pave our stone drive. Well i know being young i dont have anywhere near half the experiance as many on here. Proper placement of adequate control joints will either make, or "break" a concrete driveway application. My company is able to install it with color and stamp pattern as well.
That will keep water out of the subgrade and keep the joints from spalling (cracking back away from the joint). The bottom line for a consumer is to make sure whoever places your concrete keeps the water ratio at the proper level. half the cost of concrete at the time.) Now the color is flat and leans very much towards a silver look (instead of grey).
Concrete is bad in Florida. Asphalt is less desirable when heavy vehicles/equipment is going to be parked often in the same spot as sub surface will eventually compact further and the resulting sheer forces will crack the concrete eventually, while asphalt will dip and retain water/ice with subsequently enhanced conditions leading to deterioration. Mildew doesn't grow on it or it doesn't show.
Seems like the home buyer or owner needs to go to the rental store and man up to a wacker packer!! Broom rfinish.
In other words, is one easier and/or cheaper to dig into, work around and then patch? The formation of Ice between or below pavement tends to break it. The streets are asphalt, seal coated. I still "like" my driveway but it certainly lost the "slate" look.
Thanks for any information you can give me. Asphalt is not affected by the cold and does not deteriorate from salt use. It will be interesting to see whether the rubber from the tires of vehicles driven over the painted surface will cause permanent marking; but I would assume that if any marks are left, they too can be painted over again periodically. Sealing costs me $400.00 each time and the driveway is in great shape. The 'dirt guys' don't seem to be obligated to do any packing, no wackers nor vibrating rollers. Some have said its because of the heat but I don't believe that is the problem. Subject: concrete vs. asphalt...Northeast. The pavement and subbase thicknesses are designed to withstand the wheel loads. LOL. Choosing the driveway surface that’s best for your property depends on where you live, how much money you’re willing to spend and other personal preferences.
If this is true then you must be careful. For somewhat more distressed roads, a chip seal or similar surface treatment may be applied.
I redid my 2400SF driveway 2 years ago. Contractor planning to make a 1/2" groove. This is a great comparison of the pros and cons of concrete driveways.
I have also noticed in different areas that the top layer seams to be wasting away in different areas such as the mix of the asphalt and its stone/pebble like appearance is obvious compared to a flat look it once had. Soil type, amount of base needed, type of material used for base, what kind of vehicle traffic will park and drive on the driveway, drainage conditions, etc. I prefer #5's at 16" OC EW so I can walk through the mesh w/o standing on bars. They also evaluate the subsoil to see how much load it can withstand. if you get rid of trees either will work well. I'm sure it varies by state and municipal building code, but where I live concrete driveways are considered a "permanent structure" and are property taxed at a much higher level than asphalt, which is considered to be a "temporary structure". It ALWAYS paid off. So places consider concrete permanent home improvement thus raising your property taxes and asphalt is not consider permeant and will not raise your property taxes. Concrete always cracks (so does Asphalt), but after I have it sealed each year for $100 (three car rear entry garage) and it looks like new against the white house. Asphalt is way cheaper than concrete but,you get what you pay for,blacktop is soft and will creat dips after driving on it after so long,you can not alt it in winter as it breaks up the composition,and yeas it does require more money to keep it up,so in all,if you concrete your driveway now it is good almost forever,blacktop it and you will redo it every 5-7 years thus equally costing the same in the long run not to mention not having use of the driveway for a day or two every few years.
Roman roads have lasted millennia because they put in three layers of large to small stones bottom to top, with the equivalent of pavers on top. On another (though related) subject, I have found that minor surface defects in concrete can be successfully patched with fiberglass paste (a.k.a.
Many factors to consider before making a decision on what type material you want for a driveway. One thing that influenced me when we decided to pave our stone drive. Well i know being young i dont have anywhere near half the experiance as many on here. Proper placement of adequate control joints will either make, or "break" a concrete driveway application. My company is able to install it with color and stamp pattern as well.
That will keep water out of the subgrade and keep the joints from spalling (cracking back away from the joint). The bottom line for a consumer is to make sure whoever places your concrete keeps the water ratio at the proper level. half the cost of concrete at the time.) Now the color is flat and leans very much towards a silver look (instead of grey).
Concrete is bad in Florida. Asphalt is less desirable when heavy vehicles/equipment is going to be parked often in the same spot as sub surface will eventually compact further and the resulting sheer forces will crack the concrete eventually, while asphalt will dip and retain water/ice with subsequently enhanced conditions leading to deterioration. Mildew doesn't grow on it or it doesn't show.
Seems like the home buyer or owner needs to go to the rental store and man up to a wacker packer!! Broom rfinish.
In other words, is one easier and/or cheaper to dig into, work around and then patch? The formation of Ice between or below pavement tends to break it. The streets are asphalt, seal coated. I still "like" my driveway but it certainly lost the "slate" look.
